Spinach Quiche

All-purpose custard:
Whatever the filling, the custard mixture remains the same. Calculate the custard by egg: Whisk 1 "large" egg in a measuring cup. Blend in liquid (usually milk) to reach the 1/2 c. mark. For example, whisk 3 eggs into 4-c. measure and stir in enough milk to reach the 1 1/2-c. mark. Whisk in a little salt to taste, freshly ground white pepper plus perhaps a speck of nutmeg, or drops of hot-pepper sauce. This is usually the amount you'll need for an 8- to 9-inch shell.

Pie shells for quiche:
Prebaked, freestanding, straight-sided shell formed in a ring 1/2 to 3/4 inches deep. Or, a regular pie tin with slanting sides or a store-bought frozen pie shell. Prick the bottom of the dough at 1/4-inch intervals with a table fork and, to prevent sides from collapsing and bottom from rising, weigh down with buttered aluminum foil filled with dried beans (which can be kept and used indefinitely for this purpose). Bake at 450 degrees for about 10 minutes, until the dough has set; remove foil and beans and bake another 7 to 8 minutes more, to brown slightly.

Other Ingredients:
10-oz. pkg. of fine fresh spinach
2 tbsps. of shallots or scallions
2 tbsps. butter
1/4 c. lightly pressed down, coarsely grated Swiss cheese
1 1/2 c. of the preceding all-purpose custard
salt, pepper, and nutmeg

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and place the rack in the upper-third level.
2. Stem, wash, blanch, squeeze dry, then chop spinach.
2. Saute' shallots or scallions briefly in butter, add spinach, and stir over moderate heat for several minutes until very tender. Season carefully with salt, pepper, and a speck of nutmeg.
3. Spread half the cheese in the bottom of the pie shell, spread on the onions, and top with the remaining cheese. Beat up the custard briefly and pour it over the onions, filling the shell to within 1/8 inch of its rim if it's straight-sided, not much more than halfway if the shell is slant-sided and the sides seem at all fragile. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until filling is lightly puffed and nicely browned. For serving, slip the warm quiche out of its ring or pan and onto a serving board or platter, or serve from the pan cut into wedges.

Adapted from The Way to Cook by Julia Child (Alfred A. Knopf, New York). Copyright 1989 by Julia Child.

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